A summer succession planting schedule
Niki Jabbour
In my garden, succession planting is the secret to a non-stop harvest of vegetables from spring through late autumn. Succession planting is just planting one crop after another. For example: As early plantings of lettuce, peas, and spinach are harvested, I replace them with fresh seeds or seedlings for summer beans, cucumbers, and zucchini.
There are a few things to keep in mind as you succession plant this summer. First, be sure to amend the soil in between crops. I dig in an inch or compost or aged manure into the soil once I’ve cleaned out the first crop. You can also add a slow-release organic fertilizer if your soil isn’t overly fertile.
Also, pay attention to moisture. Summer is often hot and dry and that can make it tough for seeds to germinate or young seedlings to settle into their new site. Provide consistent, regular water to ensure your succession crops aren’t moisture-stressed. Often, I hang a sheet of shade cloth or row cover on hoops over the bed for a week or two after planting. This creates some shade and reduces water evaporation from the soil.
You can also use indoor grow lights to get a jump start on succession planting. Vegetables like cucumbers, zucchini, broccoli, cabbage, and lettuce can be started indoors and moved to the garden a few weeks later. Be sure to harden them off when you move them outside - place them in shade and gradually introduce them to more sun. The hardening off process takes about 5 days.
A summer succession planting schedule:
What to plant in June:
- Bush beans
- Cucumbers
- Zucchini
- Carrots
- Beets
- Potatoes
- Swiss chard
- Beets
- Corn
What to plant in July:
- Peas
- Zucchini
- Cucumbers
- Bush beans
- Cabbage
- Broccoli
- Carrots
- Potatoes
What to plant in August:
- Carrots (early August)
- Beets
- Winter radishes
- Turnips
- Scallions
- Kale
- Lettuce (mid to late August)
- Swiss chard (mid to late August)
5 Vegetables for Summer Succession Planting:
Cucumbers - Cucumbers are typically direct seeded or transplanted into the garden in late spring. But I like to plant cucumbers two to three times in my garden. Why? A cucumber plant will produce fruits for about 5 to 6 weeks. After that, the amount and quality of the fruits declines. But by sowing more seeds a month after the initial crop has been planted, I extend my cucumber harvest by another five to six weeks. My favourite varieties for succession planting are Diva, Picolino, Salt and Pepper, and Saladmore Bush.
Zucchini - Like cucumbers, zucchini are quick to grow, especially in the heat of summer. As the plants mature, production declines so if you want a steady harvest of tender zucchini, succession planting is essential. I direct sow seeds about four to six weeks after the first zucchini planting. Often, this successive crop is sown where I had spring peas or carrots. Be sure to dig in some compost or aged manure as zucchini loves rich soil. Outstanding varieties for succession planting include Sunburst, Eight Ball, and Magda.
Bush beans - Beans are one of my favourite vegetables to grow and they are perfect for summer succession planting. Bush beans quick to go from seed to harvest and yield a bumper crop of green, yellow, or purple pods for two to three weeks. Succession planting bush beans means you’ll have months, not just weeks, of beans. Improved Tendergreen, Mascotte, and Top Notch Golden Wax are all easy and fast to grow.
Carrots - If you want a fall - or winter - crop of super sweet carrots, you need to plant them in mid summer. I sow my cold season carrots in late July, choosing varieties like Napoli and Ya-ya. In summer it can be hard to germinate carrot seeds when the weather is hot and the soil dry so I cover the carrot bed with a piece of shade cloth or row cover to slow soil moisture evaporation.
Peas - Traditionally, peas are a spring crop, planted early and then harvested in June or July. A second planting of peas in late June or early July results in a late summer or fall crop of delicious sweet shell peas or edible pods. Be sure to read seed packet descriptions carefully to see if your chosen varieties need staking. Some peas are very compact and don’t need supports, while others can grow five or six feet tall. I use wire mesh trellises for tall peas. My favourite varieties include Sugar Snap, Knight, and Laxton’s Progress.